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How much should I risk on the different games?

glossforumadmin 242 posts

First, read Bankroll Management, then come back to this one.

     Well, if you are going to play money games, really part of the determination of how much to risk is dependent on a few factors.  Below are listed questions you must ask yourself!  Since you are asking yourself, why lie to yourself?  Be honest, play smart, on the table, and with your money.  After all, it is your money so why would you desire to hurt and bankrupt yourself.  Read the post on the known players that have gone bankrupt.  If it isnt up yet, it will be soon.  I put it there so that you can understand even if you have top notch skill for this game, even the pros have difficulty with this topic.  Learn to use good Bankroll Management and you will learn how to make a living at this game without the sorrow gambling brings with it.  Using Bankroll Management takes discipline and removes the 'gamble' from the skill game of poker.  Gambling in poker is spending more than you can afford on a single game, or, on a game above your ability.  Sometimes we don't know we cant afford it because we are optimistic.  But poker is a game of streaks, sometimes the lucky hands hit on us game after game, and other times, the best hands hold up game after game.  This is when we get complacent.  We believe the streak cannot end.  Players will wager too much, go on a bad streak and suddenly be too impatient to use the percentage rules.  The percentage rules have been tested and tried.  If you do have the skill, the percentages will provide the buffer to survive the bad streaks and give you enough to earn on the good ones.

1.  "If I lose my bankroll, will it put me in a tough spot?  Will I be unable to play if I lose it all?  Will I end up borrowing money if i lose it all?"  Be sure to read the Bankroll Management post.  If the answer is yes, use half the percentage listed.  5% becomes 2.5%

2.  "What is my skill level?"  This is a tough one for just about every player and I cannot stress this enough.  It has become very obvious that there are few players honest with their skill level.  Most players believe they are better than they are.  Having a ton of knowledge about the game does not always translate to the tables.  If you are really good at SnG's (sit and go's) you will not necessarily be good at Ring games (9 player cash, limit or no limit), Short handed games (6 player cash, limit or no limit) or MTTs (multi-table tournaments).  And the same holds true if you are good at any of the others.  Each style necessitates a different strategy.  Until you have a solid, working, functional strategy for each type of game, the money you invest into that game will be less than recommended.   If your skill level is 'new' and never played.  Stop, go to the lessons follow my new player steps (they should be up soon) and if the percentage listed is 5%, change it to 2.5%  If your skill level is moderate, use 5% taking into consideration the first question listed above.  If your skill level is advanced (5-10 years of play, read several poker theory books, understand odds, ability to bluff often), again taking into consideration the first question, 5% can be up to 7.5% but, you must not be at risk regarding borrowing money if you lose your bankroll.  If you are a professional player, read the post on known players that have gone bankrupt and change 5% to 1%.  (I had to throw a little humor in there, but sometimes professionals need to be reminded of the basics.)

3.  "Do I have ability to move back down in game size if I go on a losing streak?"  It can be difficult to see the amount of the prize pool lowered and can make some players feel like they are in kindergarten again when playing in lower buyin games.  If you are serious about increasing your bankroll rather than losing it, you must follow a plan or you will be another player that ends up whining about the horrible lucky streak that killed your bankroll, because you could not 'lower' yourself.  Don't come to me or others 'nipping' (asking to borrow money).

4.  "Am I aware that the skill level goes up as the buyin goes up?"  Well, since I said it, you are now, but few of you understand what it exactly means.  A new player playing in a 100 dollar MTT game, is called "dead money".  It means, unless you have the skill and the bankroll to handle a game, do not move up to a higher buyin.  Lightning may strike once and you could get dealt AA over and over and accidentally win a game; however, I will place 100 dollar bet that a new player will lose a 1000 dollar bankroll within 12 games playing 10% of his bankroll that way.  And if you would take that bet, which is a 10 to 1 offer, you don't know odds well enough to know its a bad bet for you, which is why you should be ignoring the percentages at this point and playing lower games, even if your bankroll can handle it.


Percentage of bankroll used per game:

MTT's (Multi-Table Tournaments) Including entry fee charged (ie: 2.00+.20...2 dollars is the buyin and 20 cents is the entry fee.):  2% of bankroll.

SnG's (Sit and Go's) Including entry fee charged:  5%

Cash games, Ring or Short handed:  5%

Study.  Start on lower buyin games. Be aware if you are too tired to play before starting a game.

SKOAL!

jontm 8 posts

Regarding ring game, a great player turned me on to the advantages of the short buy.
Again, putting Ego aside it is easier to play properly short stacked in a cash game against an aggresive table, especially if playing tight. Put 80 dollars in the middle with KK on a stop and go play, it holds you are at $160-$240.
Start with $200 and an ace flops and is checked?  How much trouble can you get in?  There is alot to be said about removing pressure, espesially if you opponents have a huge bankroll advantage.
Also, how many players really have a "bankroll" for live play at the lower limits?
In all honesty, for family raising type players, your bankroll is what you can afford to lose out of that check.  There is no high society hidden in a book.  Good players still keep books and it is more of a virtual bankroll.  What you are ahead or behind on paper.